Muscle Loss, Menopause & My Face: Why I’m Rethinking My Skincare Routine
By: Jill Chmielewski, October 20, 2025
Over the past year, I’ve been rethinking my skincare routine. I’ve long used Qet Botanicals, a line I truly love for its clean, effective formulations (thank you, Lisa, the owner!), but lately, I’ve felt the pull to layer in a few additional targeted ingredients to support my aging skin.
I really noticed a shift in my skin during the cutting phase (aka the fat loss phase) of my strength training program. As I lost body fat, I also lost volume in my face, especially in my cheeks and under-eyes. My skin looked a little more lax and a little less plump. It’s a normal part of leaning out, but it was a powerful reminder that just like muscle and bone, skin needs its own nourishment and support, especially during menopause when estrogen levels drop and collagen production declines.
If you’re like me, you probably approach skincare claims with a healthy dose of skepticism.
There are so many products out there promising to be 'anti-aging,' but when you look closely, the active ingredients are often barely there, or mixed in with fillers, fragrances, and preservatives that can irritate your skin. I want to use products that actually do what they say, and that are supported by solid science.
This summer, I had lunch with one of my nurse practitioner friends who specializes in aesthetics (and now hormone therapy), and we started swapping notes—me sharing what I’ve learned about hormone replacement, and her sharing her expertise in skincare. I’m not an expert in this area, so I really valued her advice on how to support my skin in ways that fit where I am right now. I had used fillers once or twice a few years ago, but for now, I’m not interested in fillers or 'lip flips,' though I always keep an open mind. I’m just looking for options that feel true to me at this stage, knowing things can always change down the road.
There’s absolutely no judgment if you choose those options—every woman deserves to make the choices that feel right for her. I’ve just seen too many women overdo injectables and end up losing the natural structure and balance of their face. For me, I’m trying to find that balance between wanting my skin to look a little smoother, firmer, and more hydrated, and also honoring the natural changes that come with getting older.
My friend suggested starting with a more foundational approach. She recommended a few sessions of microneedling, and a few sessions with a collagen biostimulator, plus some targeted ingredients that actually make a difference for skin health. This felt like a realistic and gentle way to invest in my skin for the long term, without trying to overcorrect or chase after perfection.
I began using prescription-strength tretinoin, and not long after, I discovered EllieMD’s GHK-Cu peptide formula. GHK-Cu is one of the most researched peptides in dermatology, with studies showing it can improve firmness, reduce fine lines, and support skin regeneration. I took a close look at the formula and the research behind it, and I have to say, I was genuinely impressed. That doesn’t happen often. I’ve only just started using it, and as with anything related to skin, real change takes time. I’m reminding myself to be patient and to keep my expectations realistic.
Below, I’ve broken down the EllieMD GHK-Cu formula—what each ingredient does, whether it’s supported by research, and if the amounts used are actually meaningful.
According to the product page, the active formulation includes:
Tretinoin 0.027%
GHK‑Cu (Copper Tripeptide‑1) 1% (a peptide that helps stimulate skin repair and regeneration)
NAD⁺ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) 0.5% (a molecule involved in cell energy and repair)
Spilanthol (Acmella oleracea Extract) 1% (a plant extract known for its mild muscle-relaxing effects on skin)
Niacinamide 5% (a form of vitamin B3 that supports the skin barrier and improves skin tone)
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (a stable form of vitamin C) 3%
Hyaluronic Acid 1% (low- & medium‑molecular weight)
PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes 0.4% (plant stem‑cell derived extracellular vesicles)
Delivered via “EllievaTec™” absorption technology.
Along with these main ingredients, the formula includes other actives that help support your skin barrier and texture. There’s also a special delivery system designed to help all these ingredients reach the layers of skin where they can do the most good.
EllieMD
EllieVate Skin+
Topical Rejuvenating Serum
Ingredient‑by‑Ingredient: What the Research Says
To provide clarity, let’s break down each main ingredient—what it does for your skin, what the research shows, and how the amount in this formula compares to what’s been studied.
1. Tretinoin 0.027%
What it does: A retinoid (a derivative of vitamin A), used for photo‑aged skin, wrinkles, and pigmentation. Retinoids increase collagen (which provides structure), slow its breakdown (by blocking certain enzymes), speed up cell turnover, improve rough skin texture, and even out skin tone.
Research dose/evidence: Studies have used concentrations from 0.025% to 0.1% or higher in photo-aged skin and found significant efficacy for wrinkles, pigmentation, and elasticity over months of use.
A 0.027% dose is on the lower end of what research shows to be effective. This can actually be a good thing if your skin is sensitive, which is common in midlife. You can still expect results, but with less risk of irritation.
Tretinoin is considered the gold standard for anti-aging, so having it in this formula is a big plus.
2. GHK‑Cu (Copper Tripeptide‑1) 1%
What it does: A naturally occurring peptide (a short chain of amino acids) called the glycyl‑histidyl‑lysine copper complex, found in human plasma (which decreases with age). It’s shown to help the skin make more collagen and glycosaminoglycans (molecules that keep skin plump), reduce inflammation, promote healing, increase skin density/firmness, and reduce fine lines.
Research dose/evidence: A 2015 study found that application of topical GHK‑Cu cream improved skin density, thickness, appearance, wrinkles, and pigmentation. That said, many studies don’t always clearly state the percent concentration in user‑friendly terms, or specify 1 % vs other concentrations.
A 1% concentration is considered a strong dose. Most cosmetic peptides are used at much lower levels, so this formula really stands out for its potency.
GHK-Cu is well researched for aging skin, and 1% is an effective amount.
3. NAD⁺ 0.5%
Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide is a coenzyme for cellular energy, DNA repair, mitochondrial function, and overall cell health. For skin, increasing NAD⁺ may improve renewal, resilience, and repair.
NAD⁺ for skin aging is promising, but topical NAD⁺ lacks the large randomized trials found with retinoids and peptides.
A 0.5% concentration is a solid amount for NAD+, especially since this is still a relatively new ingredient in skincare.
NAD⁺ adds extra support, though it’s not the main ingredient.
4. Spilanthol (Acmella oleracea) 1%
What it does: This botanical extract is marketed as a facial “muscle relaxant” to soften dynamic wrinkles by mildly relaxing muscles or smoothing skin.
Research dose/evidence: Some cosmetic studies show Acmella extract (the source of spilanthol) improves wrinkle appearance, but there are fewer large clinical trials than for retinoids or peptides (there never are with botanical extracts).
With 1% spilanthol, you’re getting a meaningful amount of this plant-based extract.
This ingredient helps target expression lines and pairs with the others that support the skin’s structure.
5. Niacinamide 5%
What it does: Strengthens the skin’s barrier (the protective outermost layer), increases ceramide production (lipids that prevent water loss), reduces redness and pigmentation, and improves both elasticity and texture.
Research dose/evidence: Numerous cosmetics/clinical studies show benefits at 2–5% (and sometimes up to 10%).
A 5% concentration is right in the sweet spot for seeing real results in your skin.
Niacinamide is excellent for aging or maturing skin and is well supported by research.
6. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) 3%
What it does: This stable vitamin C derivative brightens skin, protects from free radicals, and boosts collagen.
Research dose/evidence: Vitamin C topical studies vary; many show benefits with ~5–20% of L‑ascorbic acid, but derivatives need conversion and may be less potent per % than pure ascorbic acid.
That said, 3% MAP is still meaningful.
This is a good, supportive amount, and the other ingredients in the formula help round out its benefits.
Solid addition for radiance, antioxidant support, and pigmentation.
7. Hyaluronic Acid 1% (low & medium molecular weight)
What it does: Attracts and retains water in skin, improves hydration, plumps skin, supports barrier, and improves the appearance of smoothness.
Supported in cosmetics; molecular weight affects skin layers; the percentage varies.
A 1% level is a solid choice for a serum, giving your skin the hydration boost it needs to look and feel its best.
Hyaluronic acid hydrates and complements other actives supporting your skin’s structure.
8. PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes 0.4% (plant stem‑cell derived extracellular vesicles)
What it does: This is a proprietary “exosome” technology (exosomes are teeny tiny messenger molecules)from plant stem cells, designed to enhance skin renewal, boost collagen production (collagen keeps skin firm), and improve barrier function.
Classified as a cosmetic/“cosmeceutical” ingredient, it has less strong independent clinical trial data than retinoids/peptides.
Emerging evidence from in vitro and early clinical research, with limited large trials.
A 0.4% concentration is a reasonable amount for this advanced, plant-based ingredient.
After looking at the ingredients, you might be wondering: Does this formula actually help your skin improve in real life?
The short answer is yes. This formula is a strong choice for improving your skin. It contains several ingredients with solid research behind them, including tretinoin, GHK-Cu, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid, all at levels that matter. The other ingredients, like the vitamin C derivative, NAD+, spilanthol, and exosomes, add extra support.
Strengths:
Uses prescription‑strength retinoid (tretinoin), which has the most robust clinical evidence in skin aging.
Includes a well‑researched peptide (GHK‑Cu) at a potent dose (1%).
There’s strong support for your skin barrier and hydration from niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. This is especially important for midlife skin, since dryness and a weaker barrier are common.
Addresses multiple skin aging mechanisms (collagen decline, barrier breakdown, oxidative stress, expression lines)
Limitations / Considerations:
Each active ingredient is supported by research, but how they work together is important. You can expect to see results over several months, not overnight.
Some of the supporting ingredients, like exosomes and NAD+, don’t have as much large-scale clinical research yet. And remember, how well this formula works also depends on your overall skincare routine. Mindful sun practices, gentle cleansing, and keeping your skin barrier healthy are all essential. Even the best serum can’t make up for poor lifestyle habits or not getting enough sleep.
As with any potent active, side‑effect potential exists (especially with retinoid: irritation, sun sensitivity).
Ingredient amounts are clear. Delivery technology is proprietary, so absorption can vary.
Now, thinking about how this formula fits for women in midlife and menopause, here’s my take:
If you’re in your 40s, 50s, or 60s, your skin is going through a lot of changes. There’s less collagen and elastin, slower cell turnover, a thinner dermis, and hormonal shifts like lower estrogen that affect your skin’s barrier and structure. You might also notice more dryness and a tendency toward pigmentation. This formula is designed to address many of these concerns.
Retinoid + peptide = structural rebuild.
Barrier/hydration actives = support for dryness/texture.
Pigmentation & redness support (niacinamide, vitamin C derivative) = tone & radiance improvement.
Hormonal changes make it even more important to use strong, effective ingredients in your skincare routine.
Final Thoughts: A Smart Addition to Your Menopause Health & Vitality Toolbox
This ingredient list is generous and thoughtfully designed to support skin that’s evolving in midlife. With a proven retinoid (tretinoin), a regenerative copper peptide (GHK-Cu), and a lineup of ingredients that boost hydration, restore the skin barrier, and combat pigmentation and oxidative stress, this is one of the most comprehensive, targeted serums I’ve seen. For midlife and menopausal skin, I would absolutely call this a top-tier formula—as long as you tolerate it well, stay consistent, and use mindful sun practices.
Here’s what I mean by mindful sun practices: the sun is not your enemy. In fact, sun exposure is essential for mitochondrial health, vitamin D synthesis, immune function, and circadian regulation. Our bodies and our cells need light, especially morning sun, to thrive.
That said, when using ingredients like tretinoin or GHK-Cu, which can increase photosensitivity, we want to avoid overexposure or burning. It’s not about hiding from the sun or slathering on SPF 100 every hour of the day. It’s about finding balance. Be intentional with your sun time; get unfiltered morning light, nourish your skin with antioxidants, and protect it if you’re going to be out in intense midday sun for long periods, especially during a retinoid regimen.
Like all strategies in your Menopause Health & Vitality Toolbox, this one is most effective with consistency and patience. Skin transformation isn’t immediate; it often takes 6–12 months to see sustained changes. Go slow, keep your routine simple, and listen to your skin along the way.
I recommend EllieMD because of its commitment to education, evidence-based ingredients, and accessibility. I only share affiliate links when I deeply believe in the mission, and yes, I do receive a referral fee if you decide to purchase, but there's never any pressure. I share plenty of products I love that have no affiliate links at all. Ultimately, this is about education, informed choices, and giving women access to tools that support their whole health, skin included.
Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my work and this community.
For more information on peptides and Ellie MD, you may want to read:
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